I like to
think of myself as a liberal. I believe
in the legalization of Marijuana, I believe you should be able to marry
whomever you choose, I have even been to a Grateful Dead concert (and I can’t
say that I remember it) and in case you’ve forgotten I currently live in a
truck. Still there are some things that
are too much for me, Male Naked Jogging at 6 AM (before my first cup of coffee)
is one of them.
We left
Oaxaca early in the morning, ready for the 6 to 8 hour drive through Puerto Escondido
and to Puerto Angel. Puerto Escondido
had changed even more than Oaxaca but not in such a charming way, the rule that
I had heard about where no hotel could be higher than a palm tree had been forgotten,
and the ExPats outnumbered the waves. We
quickly moved south toward smaller towns and emptier beaches in Puerto
Angel.
We turned
off the main highway where the sign indicated and began looking for a place to
camp. Our first location was an “Eco
Camp”, they wanted $350 pesos for a bathroomless cabana and $150 pesos to camp
in the parking lot. It didn’t suite us
and as we still had some daylight left we moved on. We stopped at a hotel about 30 minutes (and
maybe 10 kilometers) later still searching for a place to camp, in I went to
see if it would work for us and our two dogs where I quickly ran into the
hotels two giant (and snoring) Rottweiler’s. Knowing it would be a no go I asked
a man selling snorkeling tours if he knew a place where we could stay. He very happily took us to an interesting
town called Zapolite. I thought from my
research that I was
prepared for Zapolite, I knew it was a hippy little place,
with a clothing optional beach, what I didn’t know was that that was the only
beach and that Hippy isn’t quite a strong enough word, it is more like a
Rainbow Community that is trying to become a “Resort” town. The only thing that out numbers the joints on
the beach are the hotels and the bars, which are open from 6 to 6… that is
night to morning! We ended up staying
two nights (we took a snorkel tour which was lovely but got us back too late to
leave the first night) and were awakened at 4 AM on our second night by a drunk
sitting in our camp, on our chairs speaking very loudly on his cell phone, he
left eventually but was a bit put out that we didn’t offer him a beer!
Besides
seeing whales, turtles and bunches of little fishes, the snorkel trip also gave
us a great tip on a place where we could camp, Zapotengo, so off we went not
sure what we would find. The dirt road
was a good sign, it looked like a place where we could camp undisturbed and
when we got to the beach this is what we found.
Adriana who runs the restaurant lives on the site with her family.
The cabanas
are available to rent
Or you can
camp for free, though eating at the restaurant is welcome and recommended, if
you can make them understand that you want to eat.
When we were
there the waves were beautiful, huge and dangerous, but this isn’t always the
case, usually the beach is swimmable
And if you
arrive around the 3rd of May they have a party for Santa Cruz at the
church above where we were parked.
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