My arms feel
like lead, the water is deep, there is a rock right behind me and in front of
me there are 20 people. “Move up on your
board, paddle, go, up.” The wave takes
me, I feel the start of the drop and try to stand up, wobbling I do it, I have
moved left avoiding the other surfers and someone cheers, I fall into the
water, grab my board and start paddling back out. As I paddle I hear Pedro give the same
directions to Fritz and watch him get a wave.
We are out at a point break, about 60 feet from shore, where beginner
surfers usually aren’t allowed to go, but because everyone knows Pedro, they
let us take a few waves; they know we need the confidence and indulge us. After three waves Pedro takes one in and
waves us to shore.
I have tried
surfing before, when I was 13 my sister’s boyfriend took me out on my “Morey
Dole” (yes I just dated myself), but after paddling out, standing up and
realizing my bathing suit top was around my waist I gave it up. Now 30 years later I am trying it again, if
my top falls off I don’t care (I have on a rash guard), I only care about
feeling of the waves and trying something new.
I have
reclaimed my inner water baby, snorkeling, swimming, SUP and now surfing. This was one of the reasons we wanted to do
this trip, to learn new things and to push ourselves out of the rut we were in. We have another lesson today, and this
afternoon we will practice, unless we are too tired!
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