Learning something new…

My arms feel like lead, the water is deep, there is a rock right behind me and in front of me there are 20 people.  “Move up on your board, paddle, go, up.”  The wave takes me, I feel the start of the drop and try to stand up, wobbling I do it, I have moved left avoiding the other surfers and someone cheers, I fall into the water, grab my board and start paddling back out.  As I paddle I hear Pedro give the same directions to Fritz and watch him get a wave.  We are out at a point break, about 60 feet from shore, where beginner surfers usually aren’t allowed to go, but because everyone knows Pedro, they let us take a few waves; they know we need the confidence and indulge us.  After three waves Pedro takes one in and waves us to shore. 

I have tried surfing before, when I was 13 my sister’s boyfriend took me out on my “Morey Dole” (yes I just dated myself), but after paddling out, standing up and realizing my bathing suit top was around my waist I gave it up.  Now 30 years later I am trying it again, if my top falls off I don’t care (I have on a rash guard), I only care about feeling of the waves and trying something new. 

I have reclaimed my inner water baby, snorkeling, swimming, SUP and now surfing.  This was one of the reasons we wanted to do this trip, to learn new things and to push ourselves out of the rut we were in.  We have another lesson today, and this afternoon we will practice, unless we are too tired!