El Salvador we made... it to a Bicycle Hotel

We’ve read the blogs and heard the stories, all over Guatemala and Mexico we saw the signs AutoHotel, a place for weary travelers with secure parking and right on the road, a perfect for one night between stops, that is until they realize these are hotels set up for secret trysts, where the rooms rent for the hour not for the night. We knew better, we avoided them, especially the ones with names like “Secret Desires” or “Romantic Whispers” (notice the names are always in English).

We got a late start out of San Pedro; I had forgotten a very important item in the apartment (my custom made mobile toilet seat) and had to wait until 8:30 to be let back in the apartment to retrieve it (yes I am not leaving that behind, pun intended).  The drive out of San Pedro was great, beautiful road that ended abruptly and turned into a terrible wash out that lasted for 2 or 3 kilometers before returning to incredible road again.  We arrived at the El Salvador border around 2, about a mile before the border we knew we were getting close, a motorcycle pulled up and offered us assistance at the border, soon another approached us.  The first cut off the second and they pulled over (we assume to discuss who would be allowed to help us), the first motorcycle followed us and the second disappeared. 

At the border I explained that I could not accept help because if I did all my family and friends would laugh at me and that it was a point of pride to complete the task of the border crossing unassisted.  That worked, for the most part, the motorcycle helpers left, but a persistent man  kept following me around, cutting in front of me and explaining to the migracion what I needed done.  It was very annoying!  After completing the check-out of Guatemala, I gave him $2 for his help and again explained that I really NEEDED to complete this on my own.  The next step was easy, immigration check, no need to even show the papers for the dogs (though I tried repeatedly) to the Aduana for the car, they kept going out to check the car, write down an itemized list of things we had on top, return to the office, make copies, back to the office.  No problem but it was 3:30 before we were done. 

I checked with Greta to see where we were (a huge shout out to Dan for downloading the maps for us!) and to confirm that the route to our next stop was on the map.  What I saw on the map was a dirt trail (30 miles long) that would take us up to the camping area.  Not feeling up to 30 miles of rough road, and seeing as it was getting close to our self-imposed “in a hotel by 4 or 5 at the latest” we changed plans and headed towards a coastal town.  On the map there was what looked like a cruise ship so we headed toward the city of Acajutla.  I soon discovered my mistake, it was a ship yes, but not a cruise ship it was a port town lined with freighters.  Not wanting to push on we quickly found a cute little hotel/restaurant to bed down for the night.  When I entered the hotel area, there was a family sitting outside all laughing and talking, the kids were very interested in the dogs and the room was only $10 a night!  Well it was a scuzzy room, dirty even, and the toilet didn’t have a seat (yes that is why I bring my own) but the restaurant was on a bluff overlooking a black sand beach, with crashing waves and a pool (filled with small children which meant that I wasn’t going in but still nice to watch).  So we stayed. 

Hot, tired and getting hangery, we took the dogs down to the beach and entertained the locals with our crazy American dogs chasing a ball and the ball thrower (something most people haven’t seen)… at least our doggies are getting better at being free range and we can let them off leash!  We then had a great (and cheap) lobster and shrimp dinner, a walked down the very shabby beach front street to a Volley Ball game (organized like a soccer match), and returned to the hotel. 

We were surprised about the number of bikes parked in the courtyard, the family was all gone so we pulled up our chairs and sat to have a beer.  As we sat talking the couple in the room next to us exited and very discreetly kissed, the man got his bike and left and a few minutes later the woman left, after about a ½ hour the second couple left, this time the woman first on her bike and then the man riding the opposite direction… we went to the car and pulled out our sheets.  In the morning the courtyard was empty of bikes.  We walked the dogs on the beach, kissed and discreetly got in our tuck and left together!